Thread: Film print look

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  1. #31  
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    Quote Originally Posted by RyLo View Post


    I think you're getting somewhere. This is the first frame I've seen where I got a distinct film vibe. It doesn't look like very good film, and the effect my be exaggerated a bit too much, but I definitely get a film vibe from this. Good work!

    Yep, it was extreme as I said.

    If someone gonna shot low budget, then his film look gonna look low budget as well, I mean, this is not bad at all, it's just reality.
    I have shot motion film stock in low budget, Kodak, Fuji, s8, 16, 35... and looks low budget, looks film because it's film, but not look like a Hollywood blockbuster.
    So I think those are points to keep in mind when we try emulate film.
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  2. #32  
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    Quote Originally Posted by robbing View Post
    Yep, it was extreme as I said.

    If someone gonna shot low budget, then his film look gonna look low budget as well, I mean, this is not bad at all, it's just reality.
    I have shot motion film stock in low budget, Kodak, Fuji, s8, 16, 35... and looks low budget, looks film because it's film, but not look like a Hollywood blockbuster.
    So I think those are points to keep in mind when we try emulate film.
    I've been thinking. Film usually has more latitude in the highlights than shadows. Digital is the opposite. So would it help with your emulation if the subject was underexposed 3 or 4 stops? You'd obviously need to de-noise, but that might be a more natural starting place.
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  3. #33  
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    Quote Originally Posted by RyLo View Post
    I've been thinking. Film usually has more latitude in the highlights than shadows. Digital is the opposite. So would it help with your emulation if the subject was underexposed 3 or 4 stops? You'd obviously need to de-noise, but that might be a more natural starting place.
    I think 1 stop below the key could work as the "key". -3 or -4 would be too much.
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  4. #34  
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    Quote Originally Posted by robbing View Post
    I think 1 stop below the key could work as the "key". -3 or -4 would be too much.
    I see. I was basing those numbers off this (perhaps flawed) chart and my BMPCC:

    single-chip-camera-evaluation-over-and-under-exposure-latitude.jpg

    Obviously the 4.6K sensor wouldn't need to under-expose as much.
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  5. #35  
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    Quote Originally Posted by RyLo View Post
    I see. I was basing those numbers off this (perhaps flawed) chart and my BMPCC:

    single-chip-camera-evaluation-over-and-under-exposure-latitude.jpg

    Obviously the 4.6K sensor wouldn't need to under-expose as much.
    I know URSA 4.6K have more latitude than the others BM cameras, but I think it's more close to real 13 stops than 15. I mean, dynamic range isn't just detail, it's also how well hold the colors and contrast as well.
    I ear some high level colorists saying: Black Magic cameras are super great as long as use it as 10 stops camera!

    Maybe it's kinda exaggerated, but those people are working with contrast and color spaces for theaters or TV which have some rules to fit.

    Anyway, your concept isn't wrong. With this chart is easy to understand how film works. Easy to see where the key in Kodak is. We can see a lot room in highlights and as the shadows clipping so fast.

    So the way to emulate a random ECN-2 negative film color could be:
    - huge latitude, specially in high and mids
    - great mids luminance and vibrant colors.
    - smooth density and roll-off
    - subtrative colors underexpose
    - smooth edges (it doesn't mean low resolution, maybe on the contrary)
    - some HUE adjustments (but not so as people think) yellow is kinda green not orange for instance.
    - a few things more....

    Some final touches:
    -halation: red glow in highlights and red thin halo in clipped highlights. Also make the white clipped highlights a little bit warm (yellow /magenta)
    -transparence: blacks are blacks, shadows could be washed or tinted, but black should be blacks.
    -grain: I'm still looking for a natural look and non distracting.

    Other than that, I' not an expert, just some experience and eye. If I'm wrong I'm open to debate it and to learn more about it.
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